The Myrtles Plantation in St. Francisville is commonly known as the ‘most haunted house in America,’ but it’s beginning to be known for a completely different reason. Thoughtfully created seasonal dishes are served from the 10-foot wide wood fired hearth at Restaurant 1796. Named for the year The Myrtles was built, the farm-to-table restaurant is what rose from the ashes when the original restaurant on the property set fire in 2017.
Property owner Morgan Moss took over leadership from his parents after the fire. His parents bought The Myrtles Plantation in 1992. When he was 12 years old, he began a career racing motocross and by the time he was 16, he had turned bonafied professional, racing for Grand National Cross Country. It was originally a fire in the gift shop in 2013, however, that had him race home with helping hands.
“When I came home to help with the reconstruction of the gift shop, that kind of opened itself to an opportunity to manage the property,” Moss said.
Fire struck again in 2017, and the family was left wondering what was next for the food & beverage component of their paranormal attraction. Moss knew he wanted to change the direction of The Myrtles Plantation’s branding, and offer something unique to visitors, but also to the locals of West Feliciana Parish.
“After we were able to recover from that, we shifted our focus to building a bigger, better restaurant that would be hitting in another weight class,” Moss said.
The result was Restaurant 1796. The concept is centered around the original way of home cooking used in the 18th century. While traveling across the country for his motocross career, Moss was exposed to lot of different restaurants and cuisines.
“It was always something I was fascinated by, just food and people’s different approaches to preparing it,” said Moss. “We were trying to come up with a concept that was fun and modern, not another cookie cutter restaurant. We found ourselves really fascinated by woodfire cooking, and felt like it was a really modern and unique approach, but it also has a huge tie to the history of the property.”
In the year of 1796, cooking meals was solely done over the hearth of one’s fireplace, and restaurants were an up-and-coming concept. Though there are many ghost stories surrounding the original owners of the property, there is no doubt meals there were prepared over an open flame. Moss works together with Executive Chef Daniel Dreher to put forth a memorable dining experience. He gives the culinary talent his full support, and control over the menu.
Chef Dreher, a graduate of Chef John Folse Culinary Institute, has a team of chefs he trains to respect the flame. The fire is what cooks these stand-out dishes, but it can be tough to work with. This challenge is what drew him to work at Restaurant 1796.
“It was something totally different from what I have done in the past. I have worked in numerous kitchens over the years from country clubs, hotels to fine dining,” said Dreher. “So, to have the experience of venturing out with a new technique of cooking was very appealing to me.”
The technique has been growing for some time across the country. Returning to the old way of cooking has become a new modern approach for chefs. Restaurants like The Dabney in Washington D.C., Ox in Portland and King + Duke in Atlanta all use the open flame. Chef Dreher is picking up on the trend, while still cooking with strong ties to Louisiana’s Cajun and Creole history.
The seasonal menu changes every three months, with its biggest changes in the Spring and Fall. Chef Dreher’s inspiration comes from his mentorship with Chef Bryan Carr, and work done under previous Restaurant 1796 chef, Chef Brian Lewis. As St. Francisville natives, both Moss and Chef Dreher love working in their hometown, giving locals something to be excited about. They themselves get excited about receiving local support they have always craved.
“We get a lot more local engagement on the property now than we ever have, and that’s rewarding to see,” Moss said.
Moss wants to keep the ghosts around (not like they’re going anywhere), because that is a large part of the bed & breakfast’s DNA. Instead, the plan is to move toward creating a boutique hotel experience, giving people a different reason to visit The Myrtles Plantation.
“What we’re really on a mission to do is diversify why people are coming onto the property,” Moss said. “It’s more than people expect for little old St. Francisville. They are genuinely impressed by the space, its appearance, concept and what we do here.”
All photos used in this story courtesy of Restaurant 1796.
Story originally posted on June 3, 2022
The rich architectural history of New Orleans stands in plain sight on our streets and sidewalks, but sometimes, it’s a bit hidden. The Dovetail Bar is a perfect example. Dovetail joints, a woodworking skill, are scattered around the 99-year-old former furniture showroom built in the early 1920s. Now, the building has a new life as a hotel and bar paying its respects to the original craftsman.
Built in 1923 by Joseph Paul Schaeffer, the J.P. Schaeffer Furniture Company held the space until the 1940s, and then over the decades, the building was various other furniture stores, like Joy's Furniture in the 1960s. During the 1990s, it eventually fell vacant.
Architects Walter Antin and Ariana Rinderknecht saw the beauty in the vacant property that was almost destroyed through years of abandonment, sitting behind the Saenger Theatre. The site also sustained damage from the collapse of the Hard Rock Hotel site which sat across the street.
The husband and wife architect team are creators and owners of The Dovetail Bar, a new cocktail lounge and coffee bar tucked inside The Schaeffer Hotel (which they also own) on N. Rampart Street at Iberville. The name of the bar was inspired by the architecture technique of dovetail joinery, a wooden joint used in furniture building without nails or screws.
The couple also owns and operates WAAR Design, a design firm dedicated to preserving the historical value of New Orleans architecture. They have worked on projects for Tulane School of Social Work, Sucre, The Black Duck Bar (inside of the Palace Café), and the St. James Cheese Company.
“As an architect I believe in maintaining the spirit of the building,” said Rinderknecht. “I always design with a very conceptual approach.”
Rinderknecht says since they live close by, she and her husband had become enamored with the once vacant building, and thought one day they would transform it to its former glory, but with a new use. The couple always envisioned having a food & beverage component to their boutique hotel, and, as admirers of J.P. Schaeffer, knew they wanted the concept to be architecturally inspired.
Dovetail offers a relaxed space for hotel guests to start their day with a coffee, or call it a night with a crafted cocktail. The specialty cocktail menu is as handcrafted as the building is. Rinderknecht and her husband worked with a bar team to create drinks closely tied to joinery techniques, like the rabbet spritz, dado collins, pocket joint, tongue & groove and mortise & tenon.
Locals in the area enjoy having a place where they can casually meet with friends, but still be part of a curated atmosphere. Rinderknecht was heavily involved in the design process, which involved hand selecting timber to repurpose left from the original structure.
“It’s quite different, and very casual,” Rinderknecht said. “We chose color, and repurposed wood from the original building. It was such incredible quality.”
Upon first glance, the name of the bar brings to mind a dove. Many people who aren’t familiar with carpentry techniques hear the name ‘dovetail’ and truly think of the tail on a dove. Coincidentally, the joinery term is named after the resemblance to a dove’s tail.
This woodworking method even inspired the bar’s logo. Look long enough and you’ll see the merging of two dovetail joints, something Rinderknecht intentionally created, saying, “once you know the history, it pops out at you.”
Story originally posted on May 19, 2022
The two-day LRA marketplace is a hub of creativity and possibilities
Exhibitors at the LRA Showcase have the opportunity to increase brand awareness, get in front of their target market, speak directly with decision makers and allow customers to touch, taste, feel and experience their products and services. This two-day marketplace sets the standard as the top regional restaurant show in the country, making it special for exhibitors that attend every year. It provides a one-stop shopping resource for thousands of foodservice professionals looking for new suppliers.
One annual exhibitor is the Certified Louisiana Program from the Louisiana Department of Agriculture and Forestry. Commissioner Mike Strain is head of this unique program designed to promote Louisiana made, grown, manufactured or processed products that are aimed at enhancing and promoting Louisiana’s agricultural industry.
“The Louisiana Department of Agriculture and Forestry is excited to bring many of our Certified Louisiana companies to the LRA Showcase again this year,” Strain said. “This is a fantastic opportunity to help connect our unique and local Certified Louisiana products with many restaurants, grocery stores, hotels, and more.”
Strain says “you’re getting the very best” when you buy a Certified Louisiana product. Members of the program range from sauces, craft beers and wines, generational seafood farmers, meats and seasoning blends. One Certified Louisiana product found just the right partnership at the showcase last year.
Melissa ‘T-Beaux’ Anderson, CEO and founder of T-Beaux’s Seasoned Gumbo Roux & Gravy Base, was an exhibitor at the showcase last year as part of a group of Certified Louisiana food entrepreneurs. She found her perfect match with Acadian Kitchens®, making her pre-seasoned gumbo roux the first of its kind. Now, her product is being sold in Rouses grocery stores from Louisiana to Alabama, with future plans of being sold nationwide.
When Anderson got the call to be a part of the LRA Showcase, she quickly formulated a plan to brand her product.
“I jumped on the opportunity and prepared in less than two weeks,” Anderson said. “My main goal was to find a co-brand partnership through another Louisiana company that could help supply the demand that I was currently seeing with my product.”
Anderson enjoyed using her booth space to place her Creole heritage in the spotlight. She knew there were no guarantees, but she was also grateful knowing the LRA was giving her a huge opportunity to market her brand.
“The atmosphere, the food, and just the whole convention and purpose was truly a life-changing experience,” Anderson said. “All the tools were given to me right there to network and market.
Anderson’s positive attitude lent her a hand in building the valuable connections with her new co-branded partnership. When she crossed paths with Acadian Kitchens®, she knew she found something good.
“A partnership with Acadian Kitchens stood out more than the others because our vision and ideas ran parallel to each other,” said Anderson.
Acadian Kitchens® is a food product supplier, fusing authentic and diverse tastes of Louisiana's Creole and Cajun cultures to bring traditional, bold, hand-crafted flavors to Louisiana and beyond.
Ryan Schemmel, the Chief Commercial Officer for Acadian Kitchens®, says this is their first ever co-branded partnership and they’re very excited about Anderson’s ideas. When they crossed paths at the showcase, Schemmel knew from their conversation she had a great product and Acadian Kitchens could help produce and distribute her recipe.
“She presents well, she is very personable and authentic, and brands well,” Schemmel said. “All of that brings a whole new level to the product.”
Their brands include Acadian Kitchens®, Ragin' Cajun® & Cajun's Choice®. Anderson’s product is housed under the Ragin' Cajun® brand.
“We think she can represent the company well,” said Schemmel. “She’s gone all in with us and we’ve gone all in with her.”
Anderson, a Lafayette native, has worked in the health care industry as surgical nurse, turned audit quality nurse. The former Mrs. Louisiana USA Ambassador 2017 got the idea to create her own pre-seasoned roux after a trip to Florida with her pageant sisters.
Not being from Louisiana, the girls wanted to eat gumbo Anderson says, so she searched Orlando for the proper ingredients but came up empty handed. She then moved to ordering some pre-made roux online, but when the package was delivered, both jars were broken. This began her process of finding just the right seasoning blend to create her pre-seasoned roux.
“Being the first woman-owned seasoned gumbo roux company, I am making history,” said Anderson. “Creole and Cajun culture is all around the world, not just Louisiana.”
Before being in the showcase, Anderson’s easy-to-prepare gumbo roux was already being sold online on her website, and in local independent grocery stores in Lafayette. It then expanded into the Rouses grocery stores in the Southern region, including Lafayette, New Iberia, Youngsville, Lake Charles and Sulphur. The showcase was her big break into the industry, an industry she wanted to be a part of to help provide a future for her family.
“My inspiration of making the gumbo was always to make cooking easy for other people to enjoy gumbo around the world,” said Anderson. “We are in a new age where we all try to juggle work and home life and still keeping in mind the family dinner concept. I wanted to create something that anyone can go home and prepare on an average weeknight.”
For more information about being an exhibitor or attendee at the LRA Showcase 2022, visit our Showcase page. Booth space is selling quick, contact firstname.lastname@example.org to learn more. Registration for attendees opens soon, stay tuned to our social media channels for more information. You won't want to miss it!
Story originally posted on May 16, 2022
Brigtsen’s Restaurant has called Dante Street home since 1986. The contemporary Louisiana restaurant in the Uptown Riverbend neighborhood recently celebrated its 36th anniversary, and this month they celebrate a 34-year membership with the Louisiana Restaurant Association. On top of these two milestones, Chef Brigtsen is adding a third by receiving the 2022 Ella Brennan Lifetime Achievement in Hospitality Award, presented by the New Orleans Food & Wine Experience.
Chef Brigtsen recalls a fond memory of Ella Brennan that still inspires him today. Back when it was Brennan’s Vieux Carre Restaurant, she would knock door-to-door on neighboring restaurants and bars to foster a strong restaurant community.
“She felt that if they came together and marketed themselves as a group, good things would happen. It wasn’t about competition, but community,” Chef Brigtsen said. “The LRA is a prime example of how productive and powerful we can be when we stand together. Their representation in our State Legislature and the U.S. Congress has been instrumental in keeping our industry a vital part of our culture and economy.”
A membership with the LRA has many benefits for business owners, like the Workers’ Compensation Program. This program has served as the model for other restaurant association funds throughout the country. Their diligent claims administration, expert loss prevention, and conservative underwriting make the program successful.
“The LRA Workers’ Compensation Program has been an affordable way to protect our staff,” said Chef Brigtsen. “We receive dividends every year for maintaining safety in our workplace.”
The LRA Education Foundation promotes the restaurant industry as a career choice for young students seeking a rewarding career in culinary and hospitality. Chef Brigtsen has been involved with the Education Foundation for years, mentoring ProStart graduates who wish to follow in his footsteps. His passion is teaching and sharing through food. For 15 years, he taught public cooking classes at the New Orleans Cooking Experience, sharing his love for America’s greatest regional cuisine.
He also teaches Contemporary Creole/Acadian cuisine as Adjunct Professor at the John Folse Culinary Institute at Nicholls State University. He serves as the inaugural Chef-in-Residence for the Culinary Arts program at the New Orleans Center for the Creative Arts (NOCCA).
“The Ella Brennan Lifetime Achievement Award is the pinnacle of my 50-year career,” said Chef Brigtsen. “The fact that I started out at Commander’s Palace as a young apprentice makes it all the more meaningful.”
All three of these significant life events have deepened Chef Brigtsen’s love for the state of Louisiana, and the hospitality industry that is so deeply rooted in New Orleans.
“Miss Ella and Chef Paul Prudhomme, who hired me there, have been the two major influences in my professional life,” Chef Brigtsen said. “I’m the luckiest guy in the world. To be a Chef in America’s greatest food city, and contribute to its evolving culture, has been a distinct privilege. I am deeply grateful.”
Story originally posted on May 5, 2022
The Garden District’s Tavern-Style Bar Unveils New Menu & Music Lineup
Nestled on the ground floor of New Orleans’ charming Pontchartrain Hotel, the Bayou Bar is a convivial gathering place perfect for locals and visitors alike. The casual tavern-style bar is filled with history and memories including serving as a drinking den for both Sinatra and Capote and being the locale where the New Orleans Saints football franchise was christened in 1966. Now, the cozy 40-seat bar has just unveiled a brand-new menu, along with an expanded live music program, featuring a rotating roster of local artists every night from Tuesday through Saturday (performance times vary).
Under the direction of Chef/Co-owner Brian Landry, new eats at Bayou Bar showcase Louisiana’s bounty of seasonal ingredients. New appetizers include Crawfish Cornbread with lemon, cherry peppers and sherry vinegar; Citrus & Chili Seared Tuna with olive mix and preserved lemon; and Tuna Rillettes with capers, lemon, mayonnaise and crackers. Mainplate additions include Poisson en Papillote – beautiful filets of fresh seasonal fish baked in parchment and served with fingerling potatoes, charred corn and crab boil butter and Soft-Shell Crab BLT with pork belly, lettuce, tomato and white remoulade. Imbibers will enjoy Bayou Bar’s extensive whiskey selection and refreshing craft cocktails like the Endless Summer – reposado tequila, coconut, cucumber and lemon shrub and A Frosé by Any Other Name – vodka, Cocchi Americano, orange liqueur, apricot and strawberry.
Bayou Bar has captured the attention of locals and visitors for its live music program, featuring some of the city’s most talented artists. With a rollicking Steinway, stellar acoustics, and a warm, intimate vibe, Bayou Bar is the perfect spot to gather with friends and enjoy a night of music. Performances take place Tuesday – Sunday; run three full hours with no cover charge and include local artists like Peter Harris, David Torkanowsky, Jordan Anderson and others. For full music lineup and performance times, please visit Bayou Bar Music Calendar.
Bayou Bar is located at Pontchartrain Hotel, 2031 Saint Charles Avenue in New Orleans’ Garden District and is open Sunday - Thursday 11AM – 11PM; Friday and Saturday 11AM – Midnight. For general information, please call (504) 323-1456 or visit www.bayoubarneworleans.com
Story originally posted on May 4, 2022
One of the LRA's newest members is Gail's Fine Ice Cream. Located in Baton Rouge, the ice cream shop from the Hufft Marchand Hospitality (HMH) group is the newest addition to the Perkins Road Overpass District. Co-Founder of Gail's and CEO of HMH Nick Hufft says this opening means the start of something big and new.
What started as a window down the side of HMH's Junior's on Harrison, out in New Orleans, has grown to opening a flagship store in Baton Rouge, primed to be a prototype for future Gail's locations. Hufft says the location is perfect for post-dinner and post-shopping traffic, it's also right on the other side of the I-10 overpass from his other restaurant The Overpass Merchant. This location was too good to pass up, so when the former tenants moved out he was right there to scoop up the property.
"We're already an anchor in the neighborhood, we’ve been there for seven years," said Hufft. "So, I had been eyeing it down for a minute. We looked at the location as --- it's in one of the greatest neighborhoods in Baton Rouge, but really surrounded by commercial businesses, boutiques, and restaurants. Having foot traffic, and not having an ice cream shop in the neighborhood, we thought it would be a great place."
Hufft began his career in restaurants after a novel idea he had one night out at the bars. The LSU graduate from New Orleans wished he had some familiar comforts of home like late night eating at classic New Orleans hot spots Camellia Grill. His ingenuity, and passion for the customer experience, sparked the drive for starting his own food truck. Once known as Moochies Mobile Muchies, many of us now know it as the burger joint Curbside Burgers in Mid-City.
"I walked out of a bar one night and there was no Dough Bowl, no Trolley Stop or Camellia Grill for me to eat at," Hufft said. "So I took it upon myself to change that."
Everything continued to grow for Hufft and his business partner Lon Marchand. The two opened The Overpass Merchant, and then Junior's on Harrison in 2019, with Gail's Fine Ice Cream being served from a window behind the restaurant.
Currently, Gail's is focusing on getting it right in Baton Rouge before expansion continues. They've brought on Rachel Caprera to oversee the ice cream, but her main role is the new pastry chef, overseeing all pastry production for all HMH restaurants. Caprera formerly worked in the kitchens of Commander's Palace, Restaurant August and Willa Jean.
All of the flavors are made in special small batches, ensuring that fine, homemade taste. Gail's flavors range from classic vanilla, to out of the ordinary, yet still familiar, like the little monsters (vanilla bean ice cream dyed azure and studded with bits of Oreos) and lemon berry ice box pie (Hufft's favorite, made with homemade lemon curd and berry compote). Caprera also used true Madagascar vanilla beans for the vanilla ice cream, and extra brute cocoa powder for the milk chocolate flavor. It's all about taking time, and making an effort to use quality and premium ingredients says Hufft.
No matter how old you are, you can enjoy the sweet pleasure of ice cream, Hufft's favorite thing about the dessert. When the school bell rings, kids in the long line are full of joy. Fresh out of the classroom, they patiently wait for their turn to see the offerings of the case. The response to the opening in Baton Rouge has been great he says, with lines out the door every night until 9 pm.
"There’s never a disgruntled customer," Hufft said. "We have yet to see someone not smiling as they enter the building. Ice cream makes everyone happy. Anyone from 3 to 90 years old can enjoy it. We take pride in using fresh ingredients for our batches. We’re happy to be serving these two communities a product that we love making."
Story originally posted on May 5, 2022
Birdy’s Behind the Bower, the charming Instagram-worthy spot perched in the back of New Orleans’ Framework building, is known for serving up some of the Crescent City’s most delectable Southern-inspired, locally sourced American fare. At Birdy’s, the chefs work closely with partner farm, Sugar Roots, to source fresh, local ingredients for dishes that range from comforting house-made breakfast items and specialty toasts to health-conscious power bowls and salads. Now, the indoor/outdoor eatery is pleased to announce the debut of a brand new Spring menu with the launch of All-Day Brunch.
“After being open for a year, we have realized that some of our most popular items are only offered on the weekends. Our goal with the daily brunch menu is to offer a little bit of everything,” says Mark Latter, owner/operator of Latter Hospitality. “Now, guests can order a benedict and Brunch Board any day of the week.”
Available Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 8AM-2PM; Saturday and Sunday from 8AM-3PM, Birdy’s new all-encompassing menu offers something for every diner.
Selections run the gamut of salad and sandwich options for those on their lunch break during work, to a Classic Breakfast and Huevos Rancheros for breakfast aficionados.
New standouts include the Debris Benedict served with shredded beef, poached eggs, buttermilk biscuit, hollandaise, pickled red onions; Mushroom Patty Melt – broccoli, white cheddar and caramelized onions served on brioche; Polenta Toast – crispy white cheddar polenta, Buster crab, roasted poblano pepper and corn vinaigrette, queso fresco; French Toast made with brioche, served with whipped ricotta, lemon curd and blueberries; and a festive Funfetti Bubble Waffle served with Louisiana strawberries, chantilly cream and granola. Of course, Birdy’s famed Brunch Board – donut, granola, slab bacon, hot coppa, bubble waffle, fruit, seasonal jam, mini cookies, mini pancakes, triple crème brie, soft boiled eggs; and Biscuit Board – whipped local honey butter, seasonal jam, chicken sausage gravy are also available.
As no brunch is complete without boozy concoctions, guests can choose from a variety of brunch cocktails to indulge in, such as $20 Bottomless Mimosas; Birdy’s Bloody Mary; Cold Brew Old Fashioned - Jameson, cold brew, mole bitters; Lillet Spritz - Lillet Blanc, soda, bubbles; and Hummingbird - white peach Grey Goose, fiero, simple syrup, grapefruit, orange juice, luxardo cherries. Wine, beer, mocktails, smoothies, coffee and specialty lattes are also available.
Birdy’s now offers a combined breakfast, lunch and brunch menu Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 8AM-2PM; Saturday and Sunday from 8AM-3PM. The restaurant is closed on Wednesday.
Birdy’s Behind the Bower is located at 1320 Magazine Street in New Orleans. Telephone: (504) 302 2992. Reservations can be made online at https://birdysnola.com/
Story originally posted on April 21, 2022
April is recognized as National Brunch Month, and we’re honoring the month by digging deep into the culinary history of New Orleans and Chef Madame Begue, the unintentional creator of Brunch.
New Orleans is a city of firsts. The city’s restaurant scene has been a breeding ground for original recipes, world-class chefs and dining habits made into steadfast traditions, (e.g., brunch). We all know what brunch is, the widely popular late-breakfast-early-lunch meal celebrated across the world, but let’s not forget Chef Madame Begue and her contribution to the culinary scene in the late 19th century, bringing ‘brunch’ to the masses with her ‘butcher’s breakfast’ on the corner of Decatur and Madison streets. The trend of dining late on the weekend has evolved tremendously, and is now commonplace for any restaurant to have a brunch menu, but Chef Madame Begue lit the fire to the brunch fuse.
The Bavarian-born Elizabeth Kettenring moved to New Orleans in 1853 to be with her brother, a French Market butcher. It was through her brother Phillip that she met and married Louis Dutrey, and then soon after the couple opened Dutrey’s Coffee Shop on Decatur and Madison streets. She served butchers and service workers from the Mississippi River, and gained quite the reputation for her French-Creole recipes. Sadly, Louis passed away but Elizabeth kept cooking.
She found love again five years later with another butcher, Hypolite Begue, and married him, taking his name and changing the name of her café to Begue’s Exchange. The spot drew a large local crowd of butchers and local workers every day at 11 a.m. This was about the time they were winding down after having been working since dawn, so a good meal was necessary.
By the time the World Cotton Centennial came to town in 1884, Begue’s Exchange was the place to be. Tourists dropping off the train into the French Quarter caught wind of her lavish ‘butcher's breakfast’ and had to try it for themselves. A meal intentionally meant for locals unintentionally became a sensational experience for tourists. According to the Times Picayune the World Cotton Centennial was a financial fail for the city because less than half of the expected crowd showed up, but brunch lives on as one of its legacies, this written in 1917 on the day of Hypolite’s death.
The Times Picayune wrote “one started with shrimp salad, ham omelette and chicken blanquette,” in a nostalgia piece on June 21, 1925. “Then liver a la Begue, for which the restaurant was famous. Veal chops with green peas and potatoes browned in butter, salad, dessert and coffee.” Madame Begue’s also made spectacular use of the fresh local seafood and used traditional Creole cooking methods.
Word traveled fast to Begue’s neighbor Tujague’s, just a few doors down on Decatur Street. Husband and wife owners Guillaume and Marie Abadie Tujague welcomed in all the extra diners later in the day, offering their own version of the 'second breakfast.' Madame Begue famously only served 30 diners a day. Her small dining room and stand-up bar left out many hopeful guests.
Upon Madame Begue’s passing in 1906, many were saddened and her legacy lives on as the first Creole chef of New Orleans. Begue’s Exchange lost its touch after she left. Hypolite had married a woman who worked closely with Madame Begue, so she knew her recipes, but it just wasn’t the same. When Guillaume Tujague passed, his sister and her husband took control of Tujague's and bought out Begue’s Exchange, ultimately moving Tujague’s the fateful corner of Decatur and Madison streets.
The second oldest restaurant in New Orleans, and third oldest continually operating restaurant in the nation, was housed in that building for over 100 years. Now, Tujague’s is located blocks down the other side of Jackson Square at 429 Decatur Street. Owner Mark Latter succeeded the property and business from his father Steven Latter, who owned it with his brother Stanford. The brothers purchased Tujague’s from Phillip Guichet Sr. and his business partner Jean-Dominic Castet, who had taken over from the original owner’s sister, Alice Tujague Anouilh.
Latter is proud to have Tujague’s under his hospitality group Latter Hospitality, and to carry on the Tujague’s name in New Orleans. He has played a large role in the modernization of Tujague’s brunch and dinner menu.
“With Tujague’s having such a longstanding tradition at dinner service with our original Table d'Hote prix fixe menu, it is nice to also honor the tradition of brunch here in New Orleans,” said Latter. “Our menu celebrates the idea of a wonderful French Quarter brunch experience with dishes highlighting local ingredients like our Crawfish Cakes and Eggs. Only in New Orleans can brunch include a bowl of gumbo or a fried shrimp po-boy.”
Brunch food has typically been a combination of eggs and meats, with the additions of soups and cocktails, but Latter likes knowing Tujague’s also gives their guests a true New Orleans dining experience wrapped in the brunch concept.
“We have options for the more casual brunch-goer, those who want to enjoy a lavish three course occasion, and everything in between,” said Latter. “Perhaps most important, bottomless mimosas are available to keep the fun going.”
At the helm of the kitchen is Executive Chef Gus Martin who enjoys paying tribute to Madame Begue through his menu. Though the recipes are not the same, they are inspired by the idea of people coming together over a hearty meal. Brunch may be breakfast-meets-lunch, but the deeper meaning of connection is clear.
“Brunch is really about sitting around at the table enjoying good food and spending time with good friends and family,” said Chef Martin. “That’s something that I’m sure existed back in the days of the butcher’s breakfast: a group of comrades sitting around a table enjoying a satisfying meal after a long early morning of work. While we might not serve the same dishes that were originally served at Madame Begue’s, we honor that same tradition of a group of folks around the table enjoying a lasting meal together.”
Story originally posted on April 13, 2022
Chef Frank Brigtsen's namesake eatery, Brigtsen's Restaurant, has lived in the heart of the Uptown Riverbend for 36 years. Opened in 1986, Brigtsen's has become a beloved neighborhood café serving contemporary Creole and Cajun cuisine, drawing diners from across the country.
Chef Brigtsen began his culinary journey while attending Louisiana State University in 1973. He moved on to apprentice under Chef Paul Prudhomme at Commander's Palace Restaurant in 1979. Chef Prudhomme appointed him to be the first Night Chef at K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen just a year later, and eventually Chef Brigtsen worked his way to Executive Chef over his seven year tenure. Through Chef Prudhomme's guidance and mentorship, Chef Brigtsen was able to open his own place, Brigtsen's Restaurant. Chef Brigtsen was inducted into the LRA Hall of Fame in 2012. We caught up with Chef Brigtsen as he begins preparations for the Spring season.
LRA: What are you giving up for Lent and why?
Chef Frank Brigtsen: Every year for Lent I give up cottage cheese. (Sorry, it’s a running joke)!
LRA: If you're not working in the kitchen, what are your Easter traditions?
FR: We traditionally do Easter supper at home with Roast Leg of Lamb.
LRA: What is your favorite recipe to cook during the early Spring season?
Chef: Our favorite seasonal Spring dish is Crawfish Egg Rolls w/ Honey Chinese Mustard Sauce, served at Brigtsen’s.
LRA: Where is your favorite place to go when you're not working?
Chef: Our go-to spot is Sidecar Oyster Patio. We also love Le Chat Noir & Bywater American Bistro.
ve Le Chat Noir & Bywater American Bistro.
Story originally posted on March 25, 2022
Nancy Weinstock McDaniel is the Vice President of Latter Hospitality. The hospitality group owns The Bower, Birdie's and Tujague's Restaurant. Tujague's is the second oldest restaurant in New Orleans. Also known as the birthplace of brunch, Tujague's recently celebrated their 165th anniversary. Once the Sales & Marketing Coordinator, McDaniel is now the Vice President and runs day-to-day sales, communications and operations throughout all three restaurants. She is the right hand of CEO, Owner and Operator of Latter Hospitality, Mark Latter.
When The Bower opened in March 2020, it was just five days before the COVID-19 shutdown. McDaniel's role expanded tremendously from that moment. Latter Hospitality has since opened Birdy's and re-branded Claret into Bower Bar. McDaniel opens up to the LRA about her work life, and the female inspirations who have led her down the path to success.
LRA: Who are some of your female culinary heroes, and why?
Nancy McDaniel: I'll start with Nina Compton and Ella Brennan. Before I was in the industry, I learned about Nina Compton from one of my favorite TV shows Top Chef. Her ability to be calm, cool and collected amongst a wide range of personalities continues to impress me. Now, she has two of the most acclaimed restaurants in New Orleans. It’s inspiring how she combines her own background with local ingredients and traditional cuisine of the area.
Ella Brennan is a no-brainer. What she was able to accomplish as a restaurateur during her time is unthinkable. All females in our industry owe a special thanks to her for paving the way. My third culinary hero is a little less well-known. Alex Snodgrass, of The Defined Dish, is a recipe developer, cookbook author and social influencer. I admire her more personally as she went to my alma-mater, TCU. Over the past few years, her business has expanded greatly, and she has become more successful and well-known. Even with this success, she continues to be herself in the most genuine and down to earth way. She is passionate about creating nutritious and fulfilling meals at home for loved ones. It inspires me to do more than order take-out or sauté a chicken breast for dinner at home with my husband!
LRA: What is the best piece of advice that you've ever received?
NM: The best advice I've ever been given is about the importance of grit. There have been times in my life when my type-A personality has taken over, and I've gotten down on myself for not being perfect. Someone close to me explained that it is way more important to have grit than to be the smartest or the best at something. Having the ability to persist in something that you feel passionate about, and to persevere when you face obstacles is far more important. This advice has since stuck with me and was a huge part of what helped me personally in dealing with these past two years. We've all had reasons to want to give up or feel sorry for ourselves throughout the pandemic, but having grit gives us the ability to make it through the tough times and we are all better for it.
LRA: Who has been a female mentor?
NM: My number one mentor in life is my mom. As a full-time attorney, who is on the management committee of her law firm, and a full-time parent to four children, she is always there for everything. It amazes me how she has been able to be the most hands-on mother there is, while also running her law firm and practicing law full-time (among her other obligations and responsibilities in other volunteer positions). My siblings and I like to joke that she overcommits herself, but somehow manages to get it all done and show up for everything. This has taught me that you truly can have it all! There is no reason that women can't have successful careers and raise incredible families. I'm excited for my own future knowing that my mom will be there every step of the way.
LRA: Why is Women’s History Month important to you?
NM: I am lucky enough to live in a time where women run Fortune 500 companies. It's important for me to remember those who paved the way for my generation, and hope that I can one day inspire the next generation of female leaders.
It's funny - when I was in middle school, I always said that I wanted to own and operate my own restaurant. Little did I know that three years in to working for Latter Hospitality, I would be the Vice President and have ownership interests in three of our four concepts. I'm excited about what the future holds and look forward to continue growing with the company!
Story originally posted on March 18, 2022